Hubei
Wuhan Hot-Dry Noodles: sesame-paste morning umami.
Hubei (central China — Wuhan, Yangtze River basin, Three Gorges) is the freshwater-fish heartland. The Yangtze and 800-plus lakes give it more freshwater fish than any other province. The kitchen is fish-and-rice, with sour-and-spicy notes and a strong street-food culture.
Wuhan Hot Dry Noodles (Re Gan Mian) is breakfast — alkaline wheat noodles flash-cooked, oiled, mixed with sesame paste, pickled radish, scallion, chilli oil — eaten in three minutes from a paper bowl. Doupi (savory tofu-skin-and-glutinous-rice cake fried on huge griddle, topped with mushroom and pork) and Mian Wo (deep-fried savory-rice doughnut) round out the breakfast cart.
Wuchang Fish (Wuchang Yu, a freshwater bream from Wuchang Lake) is steamed whole with ginger-scallion-soy. Mao's stewed pork (Hong Shao Rou) — Chairman Mao's home dish — is from neighboring Hunan but everywhere on Hubei tables. Lotus-root rib soup (Lian Ou Tang) is the household soup; Honghu Lake is the lotus-root capital. Crayfish (Xiao Long Xia) season in summer flips Wuhan into open-air dining city — millions consumed nightly.
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