Tonno di Coniglio

Peasant conserving tradition of the Monferrato and Langhe hills, where oil-sealing poached rabbit extended its shelf life through the pre-refrigeration summer. A possible Lenten stratagem is documented by 19th-century chronicles from the Avigliana area, where friars reportedly passed oil-preserved rabbit as tuna to circumvent dietary restrictions. Gastronome Giovanni Goria popularized the recipe in 20th-century Piedmontese culinary literature, recording that rabbit meat absorbs oil and becomes tender as tuna. The classic version uses the Grigio di Carmagnola rabbit — a breed with fine bone structure and superior muscle mass from the Turin province — which was nearly extinct by the 1950s, then revived by the University of Turin and designated a Slow Food Presidio.

Silken cold rabbit, its grain dissolved by days of oil infusion, yielding like good conserved tuna against the palate; the garlic and sage perfume the fat without overpowering, leaving a clean, lingering savor.

Long poaching at 85–90 °C denatures rabbit's lean myofibrillar proteins evenly, preventing the rubbery overcooking that high heat causes. Post-boning rest in olive oil triggers lipid absorption into the now-open muscle fibers: the fat infiltrates the porous, denatured protein matrix over 48–72 hours, replacing lost intramuscular moisture and creating a juicy, yielding texture analogous to tuna confit. Salt draws residual proteins outward, re-coating each shred with a thin savory pellicle as the oil sets.