Where it comes from
Kükü is the herb-packed baked omelette of the Azerbaijani-Persian table, bound with so many fresh greens it turns emerald. It is central to Novruz, the spring new-year feast, where the abundance of herbs stands for rebirth and the green of new growth.
On the plate
The first thing you taste is a wall of fresh green herbs, grassy and almost savory-sweet, with the egg fading into a soft custardy background. The edges crisp into little browned frills while the center stays tender, and a cool spoonful of yogurt cuts through it beautifully.
How it works
The high ratio of herbs to egg means the eggs act mainly as a binder, so the dish reads as a herb cake rather than an omelette; a touch of flour and gentle baking set the interior without drying it out.
Variations
kuku with walnuts and barberries, kuku with a layer of fried onion, individual muffin-tin kükü, version with chopped spinach
On the Palate
Ingredients
Serves 4
How it's made
8 steps · Show ↓15 min active · 10 min waiting
How it's made
8 steps · Show ↓- 18 min
Finely chop cilantro, dill, parsley and green onions, aiming for a large, fluffy volume of herbs.
- 22 min
Beat the eggs with salt, pepper and a pinch of turmeric until just combined.
- 33 min
Fold the chopped herbs into the eggs along with a little flour so the mixture is thick and green.
- 42 min
Heat butter in an ovenproof skillet over medium heat until foaming.
- 55 min
Pour in the herb-egg mixture and cook gently until the bottom sets, about 4-5 minutes.
- 612 min
Transfer the skillet to a moderate oven and bake until the center is firm and set.
- 72 min
Loosen the edges, invert or slide the kükü onto a board, and cut into wedges.
- 81 min
Serve warm or cool with a bowl of plain yogurt alongside.
