Fishball

The Filipino fishball descends from the Chinese fishball brought by Hokkien traders and migrants, reshaped into the flat, starch-heavy street version sold from carts. It spread widely in the latter half of the twentieth century alongside squid balls, kikiam, and other fried sticks, becoming a defining sound and smell of Manila sidewalks. The flattened shape and the communal dipping tubs are local inventions of the cart trade; the exact origin is undocumented, but the lineage from Chinese fishball is clear.

Fresh from the oil it is crisp at the edges and chewy in the middle, with a soft, slightly bouncy crumb and a gentle fish flavor that is more about texture than taste. The real flavor comes from the dip — a thick, sweet-savory brown sauce or a sharp garlicky vinegar — that the porous surface drinks up. Eaten in quick succession, three or four to a skewer, while still hot.

The paste is ground fish bound with flour and cornstarch, which is what makes the disc chewy and able to hold its shape in the fryer; more starch means a firmer, springier bite. Flattening increases surface area so the fishball crisps and, just as important, carries more sauce. Deep-frying in steady oil sets the exterior and cooks the starch through while keeping the inside moist. The brown dipping sauce is thickened with flour and sweetened, designed to cling to the rough fried surface.