Butaman
Japanese

Butaman

Osaka·Medium·45 min active + 1 hour 45 min resting

Butaman is the Osaka name for the steamed pork bun that most of Japan calls nikuman: a soft, slightly sweet leavened wheat-flour bun enclosing a filling of seasoned ground pork and chopped onion, pleated shut and steamed until pillowy. In Osaka and the wider Kansai region the word niku (meat) tends to mean beef by default, so the pork version is named buta (pork) -man to be specific. It is a hot snack eaten out of hand, sold from steamer cases at shops, stations and convenience stores, and is most famously the signature of the 551 Horai chain, whose freshly steamed butaman are a citywide institution. Served piping hot, sometimes with mustard or a little soy.

The steamed meat bun descends from the Chinese baozi, brought into Japan's food culture through Chinese restaurants. The Osaka institution most identified with butaman, 551 Horai, was founded in October 1945 in Namba, Osaka, as a Chinese eatery called Horai by Taiwanese residents of the city, only months after the end of the Second World War; it began selling its butaman in 1946 and added over-the-counter takeaway sales in 1952. The original business later divided, around 1964, into separate companies that still trade under the Horai and 551 names. The chain's freshly steamed butaman now sell in very large numbers daily across its Kansai shops. The 'buta-man' versus 'niku-man' naming reflects the Kansai sense of niku as beef, so the pork bun is specified by name.

The bun should be hot enough to steam when torn open. The wrapper is soft, faintly sweet and slightly chewy, a little springy from the leavening; inside, the pork filling is juicy and savory, studded with sweet onion that has turned soft and translucent in the steaming. The contrast is the point — a mild, bready wrapper against a rich, salty-sweet meat centre. A good butaman holds juice without leaking through a gummy or doughy wrapper; a bad one is dense, dry-centred, or collapsed from oversteaming.

Two things make the bun. The wrapper is a yeast- or baking-powder-leavened wheat dough: the leavening generates gas that the gluten network traps, and steaming sets that aerated structure into a soft, light crumb rather than the firm crust of an oven bake, because the moist heat keeps the surface from drying or browning. The filling is built to stay juicy under steam — fat in the ground pork and water held by the onion render and release as the bun heats, and the dough wrapper seals that moisture inside, so the centre effectively steam-cooks in its own juices. Chopped onion contributes sweetness and moisture as its cells break down and sugars come forward with heat. Steaming over (not in) boiling water cooks the bun through gently and evenly without waterlogging the dough.

Variations

The pan-Japanese name for the same bun is nikuman, sold nationwide from convenience-store steamers in the cold months. Close relatives in the steamed-bun family include the anman (sweet red-bean bun), the pizza-man, and the curry-man. Some shops make a larger jumbo butaman, and fillings vary with the addition of shiitake, bamboo shoot, or quail egg in Chinese-style versions. Outside Kansai the pork bun is generally just called nikuman, and a small grilled-and-pan-fried cousin, the yaki-manju style, is a separate Chinese-derived form.

On the Palate

Where Butaman sits in the Japanese flavor cloud

HeatRichnessComplexityFermentFreshness

Ingredients

Serves 6

How it's made

7 steps · 45 min active + 1 hour 45 min waiting

  1. 1
    70 min

    Make the dough: combine flour, sugar, yeast, a little oil, and warm water; knead until smooth, then cover and let it rise until doubled.

    Watch out

    Let the dough rise until fully doubled — under-proofed and the steamed wrapper comes out dense instead of soft and light.

  2. 2
    12 min

    Prepare the filling: mix ground pork with finely chopped onion, soy sauce, sesame oil, sugar, grated ginger and a little cornstarch, and season; chill it briefly to firm up.

  3. 3
    8 min

    Knock back the risen dough, divide it into even pieces, and roll each into a round wrapper thicker at the centre than the edge.

  4. 4
    10 min

    Place a spoon of filling in each wrapper, then gather and pleat the edges up and around the filling, twisting the top closed.

  5. 5
    20 min

    Set the filled buns on squares of parchment and let them proof briefly so they puff and relax.

  6. 6
    14 min

    Steam the buns over rapidly boiling water, well spaced, for about 12-15 minutes until the wrappers are set, glossy and springy.

    Watch out

    Steam over hard-boiling water until the wrappers are set, glossy and springy — the trapped juices steam-cook the filling inside.

  7. 7
    2 min

    Serve immediately while hot, with hot mustard or soy sauce on the side if liked.

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