
Circassian chicken: poached chicken pulled into fine shreds and bound in a thick, pale sauce of ground walnuts, bread and garlic, served cold as a meze. The plate is finished with a slick of red oil made by stirring pul biber into walnut oil or melted butter. It is a fixture of the old Ottoman-Istanbul table and of meyhane spreads, eaten cool with bread.
The dish is credited to the Circassians, North Caucasus peoples who settled across the Ottoman lands in large numbers after the Russian conquest of the Caucasus in the 1860s and brought their walnut-thickened cooking with them. It became established in Istanbul kitchens and is documented as a refined cold dish of the late Ottoman and early Republican table. Walnut-and-garlic sauces of this kind are shared widely across the Caucasus and the eastern Black Sea, so the dish sits within a broader regional family rather than standing alone.
Cool and savoury, the chicken soft and finely shredded, the walnut sauce thick and faintly sweet-bitter with a real garlic edge. The texture is the point — smooth and spoonable, never dry, the bread in the sauce keeping it creamy. The red oil drizzled over the top adds a warm paprika aroma and a light bitterness from the walnut oil that lifts the richness.
Poaching the chicken gently keeps the meat moist and yields a stock that is reused to loosen the sauce, so the dish is built from one bird. Ground walnuts are emulsified with stale bread soaked in that stock and pounded with garlic: the bread's starch and the nuts' own oil hold the sauce together into a stable, creamy paste rather than a greasy one. Serving it cold lets the walnut oil and starch set so the sauce clings to the shredded meat instead of pooling.
Variations
Some cooks thicken with rice or just bread; richer versions enrich the sauce with extra walnut oil. The red oil on top can be walnut oil or butter bloomed with pul biber; a few add a little chili paste to the sauce itself. The chicken is sometimes left in larger pieces, but the fine shred is the classic meyhane form.
On the Palate
Where Çerkez Tavuğu sits in the Turkish flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 6How it's made
6 steps · 45 min
- 145 min
Poach a whole chicken or chicken pieces in water with onion until tender, then lift out and keep the stock.
- 215 min
Cool the chicken and pull the meat into fine shreds, discarding skin and bone.
- 35 min
Soak stale bread in a little of the warm stock until soft.
- 410 min
Grind the walnuts with garlic and the soaked bread to a thick paste, loosening with stock to a spoonable sauce.
Watch outGrind the walnuts, garlic and soaked bread to a thick paste, then loosen with stock — the bread's starch and the nut oil should bind into a creamy sauce, not a greasy pool.
- 55 min
Fold most of the sauce through the shredded chicken, season, and spread on a serving plate with the rest over the top.
Watch outServe it cold — chilling lets the walnut oil and starch set so the sauce clings to the shredded chicken instead of running off the plate.
- 63 min
Stir pul biber into warm walnut oil or melted butter and drizzle the red oil over before serving cold.
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