Tofu skin rolls fermented for two to three days on a bed of rice straw until white mould furls across their surface — one of Shaoxing's Three Stenches, transforming plain soybean sheets into something impossibly savoury, yielding, and cheese-adjacent.
霉千张 is anchored to Songxia (崧厦) township in Shaoxing's Shangyu district. Local records and the official intangible heritage documentation trace its origin to the Cai Wansheng water-works (蔡万盛水作坊), active in the Qing dynasty approximately 200 years ago. The proprietor Wang Shaorong had produced a large batch of thousand-layer tofu skin for local temples; the excess, covered and set aside, was found the following day mottled with yellow spots and smelling of mould. Unable to waste the surplus, he tasted one sheet and discovered unexpectedly pleasant softness and flavour. The three great monasteries of Putuo Island — 普济, 法雨, and 慧济 — soon began dispatching representatives to Songxia to purchase 霉千张 for monastic feasts. Tradition also holds that the Qianlong Emperor praised it as a rare delicacy during his southern tours, though this attribution is difficult to verify independently. In November 2008, the Songxia 霉千张 craft was inscribed on the second batch of Shaoxing City intangible cultural heritage.
The fermented skin is yielding and almost unctuous — the mould has dissolved the tough soybean protein network into something softly giving. A mild acidity counters the richness, and the aroma walks a fine line between cheese-ripe and ammonia; steaming deepens the savory dimension considerably.
Mucor and related filamentous fungi colonize the rolled soybean sheets during the 2–3 day fermentation. Their extracellular proteases cleave the soy glycinin and beta-conglycinin protein networks — the structural scaffold that makes fresh tofu skin tough — into shorter peptides and free amino acids including glutamate, producing soft texture and savoury depth simultaneously. Mould lipases hydrolyse the soybean's linoleic-acid-rich oils into free fatty acids, yielding cheese-like aromatic compounds responsible for the dish's characteristic ripe aroma. The white mycelium visible on the surface is edible and contributes to the final texture.
Variations
Most commonly steamed and served with minced garlic and sesame oil; also rolled around pork or shrimp filling and braised in a light soy stock. 霉千张 is one of Shaoxing's Three Stenches, alongside 霉苋菜梗 and stinky tofu, embodying the Ningshao Plain philosophy of finding freshness through mould.
On the Palate
Where Fermented Tofu Skin sits in the Chinese flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 4How it's made
6 steps · 30 min
- 115 min
Press fresh thousand-layer tofu skin dry; cut into rectangles and roll each tightly into a cylinder about 2–3 cm in diameter with a hollow centre.
Watch outRoll each tofu-skin sheet tight with a hollow center — this lets air reach the inside so the mold colonizes the roll evenly through and through.
- 210 min
Line a bamboo or wooden mold box with dry indica rice straw in a single layer.
- 35 min
Arrange the tofu skin rolls on the straw; place a light wooden board over the rolls as a gentle press.
- 42880 min
Ferment at room temperature (20–25°C) for 2–3 days in warm weather, or 5–6 days in winter; the rolls are ready when white mould down covers the surface and a savoury mould aroma has fully developed.
Watch outIt's ready when white mold down fully coats the rolls and a mellow savory aroma has come up — patchy fuzz or a sour-sharp smell means it's not there yet.
- 510 min
Remove rolls from the mold box; steam over high heat for 8–10 minutes.
- 63 min
Drizzle with sesame oil, scatter minced garlic, and serve immediately.
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