Pork kidneys scored in a deep crosshatch that unfurls into chrysanthemum blossoms in the hot oil, then glazed in a translucent sweet-sour sauce — the most technically demanding of the Four Imperial Grasp-Fried dishes, prized for the crispy-tender contrast unique to offal well-prepared.
One of the Four Imperial Grasp-Fried dishes created by Qing court cook Wang Yushan for Empress Dowager Cixi. The kidney version was considered the most technically demanding in the suite, requiring intricate crosshatch knife work before frying. After the Qing dynasty fell, the recipe passed to Fangshan Restaurant at Beihai Park, founded 1925 by former imperial cooks. The dish later influenced the Shandong-derived stir-fried kidney that spread nationwide and was compiled into the Chinese Famous Dishes anthology in the 1950s.
The scored surface crunches faintly; the kidney's dense, firm interior then gives way — clean, almost mineral, with no gamey trace when properly prepared. The sweet-sour glaze bridges the crispness and the meat.
The crosshatch scoring — straight cuts at four-fifths depth, then diagonal cuts at two-thirds depth across the grain — serves two purposes. First, it maximises surface area for crust formation. Second, when the collagen in the kidney's connective tissue contracts at 60–65°C, each scored segment curls outward to form the characteristic flower shape. Pre-soaking in cold water with acid (vinegar or wine) draws out blood and dissolves volatile amines responsible for off-odour; blanching in ginger-scented liquid volatilises remaining compounds before the final fry.
Variations
Shandong-style stir-fried kidney skips the double-fry in favour of a single high-heat wok sear; the result is saucier and less crispy. Some restaurants add bamboo shoots and wood-ear mushrooms alongside the kidney for textural contrast.
On the Palate
Where Imperial Grasp-Fried Pig Kidneys sits in the Chinese flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 3
How it's made
8 steps · 15 min active + 15 min waiting
- 18 min
Slice each pork kidney in half lengthwise. Remove every trace of white glandular tissue (腺体) with a sharp knife — this step is essential to eliminate off-odour.
Watch outPare away every scrap of the white gland from each kidney half — leave any behind and no amount of soaking or frying will lift the off-smell.
- 215 min
Score each half with straight cuts at four-fifths depth (3–4 cuts per centimetre), then crosshatch with diagonal cuts at two-thirds depth. Cut into serving segments. Soak in cold water with 1 tbsp vinegar for 15 minutes.
- 33 min
Blanch kidney pieces in boiling water with 3 ginger slices and 1 tbsp Shaoxing wine for 30 seconds. Drain and pat completely dry.
- 42 min
Make batter: combine 3 tbsp potato starch and 1 tbsp water. Coat kidney pieces evenly.
- 52 min
Mix sauce in a bowl: 2 tbsp soy sauce, 2 tbsp rice vinegar, 2 tbsp sugar, 1 tbsp Shaoxing wine, 1 tbsp water starch, 2 tbsp stock.
- 62 min
Heat 500 ml oil to 210°C. Fry kidney pieces in batches for 90 seconds until the scored surface blooms into a flower shape and turns golden. Remove.
Watch outIn the first fry watch the crosshatched cuts curl open into a chrysanthemum — that bloom means the collagen has set the shape and the surface has gone golden.
- 71 min
Raise oil to 220°C. Return kidney pieces for a 30-second second fry until deeply golden and crisp. Drain on a rack.
Watch outPush the oil hotter for the quick second fry — the flowers should turn deep gold and crisp; this is what keeps them crunchy once the sauce hits.
- 82 min
Pour off oil, leave 1 tbsp. Stir-fry minced scallion and ginger until fragrant. Add sauce; cook until thick. Add kidneys and toss 20 seconds. Serve immediately.
