Moroccan

Tagine Mokh

Marrakech & Central·Medium·25 min

羊脑或牛脑用查莫拉酱调味,与鸡蛋同焖,质地嫩如奶冻。宰牲节期间的内脏菜,摩洛哥人利用动物的每个部位,脑花是其中最嫩的一种。

Tagine mokh — brains tagine — is a Moroccan offal dish most closely associated with Eid al-Adha, when the sacrificial sheep is slaughtered and every part is used. Brains are the most delicate of the offal organs, with a texture closer to custard than meat, and they are cooked gently with chermoula (garlic, cumin, coriander) and eggs cracked on top. Offal cookery is a deep current in Moroccan food, and brains tagine is one of the more approachable entries: mild in flavor, soft in texture, and quick to cook. It is also found in Moroccan-Jewish cookery, where it is served for Sabbath breakfast.

The brains are custard-soft, faintly sweet and entirely mild, coated in a garlicky, cumin-scented sauce; the eggs set silky on top. It is the softest, gentlest dish in the Moroccan offal repertoire.

Brains are almost pure fat and protein with no connective tissue, which means they cook in minutes, not hours, and they overcook just as fast. The gentle steam under the tagine lid is the right heat: direct frying toughens them, boiling disperses them. Chermoula's cumin and garlic are the standard pairing for brains across Morocco, partly for flavor and partly because their strong aromatics mask the faint organ-meat scent that puts some people off. The eggs are added at the very end and set by residual heat in 3-4 minutes.

Variations

Some cook the brains with tomatoes and peppers. A Marrakchi version adds preserved lemon. The brains can also be floured and fried separately before the sauce.

On the Palate

Where Tagine Mokh sits in the Moroccan flavor cloud

HeatRichnessComplexityFermentFreshness

Ingredients

Serves 4

How it's made

6 steps · 25 min

  1. 1
    5 min

    Soak 4 lamb or calf brains in cold salted water 30 min; peel off the thin membrane carefully; cut into large pieces.

  2. 2
    5 min

    In a tagine, heat 2 tbsp olive oil; add 1 sliced onion, 4 crushed garlic cloves, 1 tsp cumin, 1 tsp paprika, 1 tsp coriander, salt; cook 3 min.

  3. 3
    5 min

    Add 2 grated tomatoes; cook 5 min until jammy.

  4. 4
    8 min

    Nestle the brain pieces into the sauce; cover and simmer 8-10 min until just set.

    Watch out

    Brains cook in minutes — pull them the moment they turn just-set and opaque, or they go to mush.

  5. 5
    4 min

    Crack 3 eggs over the top; cover and cook 4 min until the whites are set.

    Watch out

    Add the eggs at the very end and let residual heat set the whites in 3–4 minutes — direct high heat would rubber them.

  6. 6
    3 min

    Sprinkle with chopped coriander and extra cumin; serve with bread.

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