A classic Huizhou banquet dish from southern Anhui. Home dry-cured salt pork belly is laid over fresh spring bamboo shoots and steamed, traditionally finished on a camphor-wood cutting board, then sliced thin and served on the board itself. The salt-cured aroma of the pork, the clean sweetness of the shoots, and the resinous fragrance of the camphor board meet on the board, which also absorbs surface fat so the meat tastes salty-savoury rather than greasy.
Daobanxiang is a traditional Huizhou home dish from Shexian and Jixi counties in southern Anhui, built on the local custom of dry-curing pork belly with salt in winter. The name means the fragrance is carried on the cutting board (刀板): the cooked pork is rested and sliced on the board so that wood scent, salt-cured pork, and bamboo shoot meet there. By tradition the board is camphor wood (香樟木). A widely told legend attributes the name to the Ming statesman Hu Zonghuan (1512-1565), a Jixi native and Minister of War known for fighting coastal pirates, who is said to have praised and named the dish on a visit home; this story is folklore rather than documented record. The dish's verifiable core is the camphor-board steaming technique and the Huizhou home-curing tradition.
Translucent slices of cured pork belly, lean layered with rendered fat that has gone soft and glassy, carrying a deep salt-savoury aroma edged with faint camphor wood. Beneath sit the bamboo shoots, crisp-tender and faintly sweet, having soaked up the pork's fat. The whole plate is salty and fragrant rather than oily.
Dry-salt curing is the flavour foundation: rubbed-on salt draws moisture out by osmosis and lowers the meat's water activity (around 1% salt concentration is enough to rupture microbial cell membranes), which both preserves the pork and concentrates it. Over weeks, proteolysis breaks muscle protein into free amino acids — aspartate for umami, threonine and serine for a sweet edge — plus aldehydes and ketones that form the cured aroma. Steaming then melts the fat: rendered lipids drip down and are absorbed by the porous spring bamboo shoots, which carry savour while cutting richness. On the camphor-wood board, heat volatilises aromatic compounds in the wood that ride the steam into the meat, while the wood's open grain wicks away surface grease, leaving the slices salty-savoury rather than greasy.
Variations
Some cooks blanch the salt pork whole to about 80% done first, then steam the thin slices on the board for five to six minutes to keep the meat from going mushy. A zongzi (reed) leaf is often laid under the slices on the board. Where camphor wood is unavailable, an ordinary wooden board or a plate is used and the dish still carries the name. The bamboo shoots may be replaced by dried bamboo shoots out of season, and well-aged Huizhou ham is sometimes used in place of, or alongside, the salt pork.
On the Palate
Where Daobanxiang sits in the Chinese flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 4How it's made
6 steps · 20 min
- 130 min
Soak the dry-cured salt pork belly in cool water for about 30 minutes to draw out excess salt, then rinse.
Watch outSoak the salt pork about half an hour and taste — you want to pull out excess salt without washing away all the cured flavour.
- 212 min
Bring a pot of water to a boil and blanch the salt pork together with whole unpeeled spring bamboo shoots until the pork is about 80% cooked; remove the pork before it softens too much.
Watch outBlanch only to about 80 percent done and lift the pork before it softens — it finishes in the steamer, and over-boiled it falls apart when sliced.
- 35 min
Peel the shoots, halve lengthwise, slice on the diagonal, and arrange as a bed in a heatproof dish or on a wooden board.
- 44 min
Slice the blanched salt pork thinly and lay the slices, fat and lean, over the bamboo shoots.
- 56 min
Steam over high heat for 5 to 6 minutes once the steamer is at full steam, until the fat turns translucent.
Watch outSteam over full steam just until the fat turns translucent — that clear, glassy fat is the doneness signal; longer dries the lean.
- 62 min
Lift onto a camphor-wood cutting board if using, garnish with chopped scallion and a few green leaves, and serve on the board.
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