The crown dish of Baikui Old Restaurant (白魁老号), a Hui-Muslim institution serving Beijing since the Qianlong era. Young castrated lamb from China's western regions is seasoned with twenty-four spices, simmered for three hours until gelatinously tender, then deep-fried in sesame oil until the exterior shatters into a deep amber crust. The celebrated contrast—crisp shell, silken interior—made this a Qing-dynasty imperial tribute delivered to the palace each year from the second day of the second lunar month.
Bai Kui, a Hui Muslim devoted to culinary study, opened 东长顺 near Longfusi temple in Beijing in the Qianlong era. Sources disagree on the exact founding year—some say Qianlong 5th year (1740), others Qianlong 45th year (1780). Both traditions agree that Bai Kui taught imperial kitchen chefs his techniques. His braised-and-fried lamb was so celebrated that customers forgot the shop's original name and called it simply 'Baikui.' By the late Qing, the restaurant was named an official imperial tribute supplier: each year on the second day of the second lunar month, the Imperial Household Department sent staff carrying lacquered ceremonial boxes to collect the first batch for palace consumption. Baikui Old Restaurant is counted as one of Beijing's four premier lamb establishments alongside Donglaishun, Kaorouji, and Yueshengzhai.
The fried crust shatters with a dry crackle on first bite, releasing sesame oil and star anise. The interior yields immediately—gelatinous, almost custard-soft—carrying the deep warmth of a twenty-four-spice simmering stock. There is no gaminess; the three-hour pre-cook has driven off volatile sulfides, leaving only clean, rounded lamb sweetness with a long, warm finish.
The six-stage process targets two transformations: collagen conversion and surface dehydration. Three hours of gentle simmering convert muscle collagen to gelatin, creating the silken interior. The final deep-fry in sesame oil at 180–190°C rapidly dehydrates the surface; Maillard reactions between amino acids and reducing sugars in the meat produce the amber crust and roasted aromatics. Sesame oil's high content of lignan antioxidants (sesamin, sesamolin) inhibits rancidity—historically significant for the palace delivery route. The twenty-four-spice blend delivers fat-soluble aroma compounds—eugenol from clove, cinnamaldehyde from cinnamon, linalool from coriander—that partition into intramuscular fat during simmering and volatilise again at mouth temperature, producing layered, sustained fragrance.
Variations
Baikui Old Restaurant also serves 香酥羊肉 (extra-crisp double-fried lamb) and 扒羊肉条 (slow steam-braised lamb strips). Modern home versions often substitute domestic lamb for the rare western-region castrated sheep (西口阉羊), which reduces depth. The dish is traditionally paired with lotus-leaf steamed flatbread (荷叶饼) for wrapping and absorbing the juices.
On the Palate
Where Baikui Braised-and-Fried Lamb sits in the Chinese flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 4How it's made
7 steps · 30 min
- 130 min
Select 2–3 year-old castrated lamb; trim to front-leg and belly portions; rinse and soak in cold water for 30 minutes to remove blood.
- 210 min
Blanch lamb in boiling water for 5 minutes; skim foam thoroughly; remove and rinse under cold water.
- 310 min
Prepare spiced stock: combine cloves, cardamom, star anise, cinnamon, Sichuan peppercorns, rock sugar, and soy sauce in water; bring to a boil.
- 4180 min
Add lamb to stock; return to a boil, then reduce to the lowest possible heat; cover and simmer for 3 hours until a chopstick passes through with no resistance.
Watch outSimmer on the lowest heat three hours until a chopstick slides through with no resistance — this converts the collagen to silk.
- 530 min
Remove lamb onto a rack; allow to cool completely; pat the outer surface thoroughly dry with kitchen paper.
Watch outCool the lamb fully and pat the surface bone-dry before frying — any surface moisture spits in the oil and stops the crust forming.
- 610 min
Heat sesame oil to 185°C in a deep wok; carefully lower lamb and deep-fry 8–10 minutes until deep amber and crackling crisp all over.
Watch outDeep-fry at 185 degrees until deep amber and crackling all over — this seals a Maillard crust while the inside stays melting.
- 75 min
Rest 5 minutes; chop into serving pieces; serve immediately with a dipping sauce of garlic and rice vinegar.





