Cima alla Genovese

A Genoese specialty since at least the 16th century, long documented as a humble Ligurian way to use the cheap belly cut of veal. Originally a thrifty home dish — one veal breast and a handful of vegetables fed a whole family — that was later refined into festive cold fare; the poet Aldo Acquarone crowned it 'the king of cold dishes' in a Genoese-dialect sonnet, and Fabrizio De André set its recipe to music in the 1990 song 'Â çimma'. The dish is summer fare; it must be served cold, which made it ideal for Genoa's hot harbor kitchens.

A Genoese specialty since at least the 16th century, recorded in Antonio Latini's 1692 cookbook as a way to use cheap Ligurian veal belly. Summer fare — must be served cold. The veal breast is sewn into a closed pocket, simmered 90 minutes, then weighted between two boards with a 2 kg stone for 6+ hours. Without the press, the egg stuffing puffs and the slice falls apart.

A flat oval of cold veal breast, sliced thin to reveal a patterned cross-section: pink meat wall around a stuffing of egg-bound veal sweetbreads, peas, pine nuts, marjoram, and pistachios. Served at room temperature with mustard or salsa verde on the side. The slice should hold its pattern; if the filling crumbles out, the cima was overstuffed or under-rested.

The veal breast is sewn into a closed pocket and simmered in court bouillon for 90 minutes, then weighted between two boards with a 2 kg stone for 6+ hours. The pressing is what creates the clean cross-section — without weight the egg stuffing puffs and the slice falls apart. Skim foam constantly during the simmer or the meat picks up gray scum.