Rhineland-Westphalian fried meat slice — pork or beef cooked with buckwheat groats, onion, and spices into a loaf, refrigerated firm, then sliced 1cm thick and pan-fried crispy on both sides, served with apple sauce and rye bread — the rural Rhineland breakfast or supper staple.
Pannas (also Panhas — Westphalian variant) is the Rhineland-Westphalian peasant kitchen's brilliant solution to using every part of the pig and beef after slaughter. The dish is essentially a 'leftover loaf': pork or beef trimmings + organ meats + cooking liquid + buckwheat (Buchweizen) cooked together until thick, poured into a loaf pan, refrigerated overnight, then sliced and pan-fried. The fried slices are crispy on the outside and meaty-soft inside. The dish was originally a way to extend a small amount of meat to feed many over multiple meals — a single batch of Pannas would feed a family for several days. The buckwheat (a Slavic grain that thrived in poor Westphalian soil) provides bulk and characteristic earthy-nutty flavor. The dish is similar to American 'scrapple' (which was brought to Pennsylvania by Rhineland immigrants in the 18th century) — Pannas is its German ancestor.
A fried Pannas slice is dramatic: outside is crispy-mahogany-brown (you can hear it crackle under the knife), inside is dense-meaty-savory with visible flecks of buckwheat (the dark specks throughout). The bite is substantial — Pannas is filling like meatloaf. The flavor is deeply pork-and-organ — even people who don't normally eat organs love Pannas because the liver flavor is mellowed by buckwheat. Apple sauce on the side is non-negotiable: its bright sweet-acid cuts through the rich meatiness. A piece of dark rye bread to scoop with completes the dish. Two slices is breakfast; three is supper.
Pannas's structure depends on the buckwheat's high amylose starch content — when cooked into broth, it gels strongly and traps the meat fragments. After refrigeration, the gel firms into a sliceable loaf that holds together during frying. Without buckwheat, the mixture would fall apart. The overnight chilling step is non-negotiable — warm Pannas falls apart when fried; only the chilled-and-firm state slices cleanly. The double-cook (boil + fry) is functional: boiling creates the structure, frying creates the crust. American scrapple uses cornmeal instead of buckwheat — different texture, similar dish concept.
Variations
Westphalian Panhas uses pork + liver + lots of buckwheat; Rhineland Pannas can use beef + pork combo; Bergisches Land variant adds dark sausage trimmings; modern Westphalian butchers sell pre-made Pannas in supermarkets (acceptable for the lazy); a vegetarian Pannas using mushroom-and-buckwheat exists but is essentially a different dish; American scrapple is the direct descendant brought by 18th-century Rhineland immigrants to Pennsylvania; the dish is breakfast-or-supper food, never lunch (a Rhineland convention).
On the Palate
Where Pannas sits in the German flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 6
How it's made
8 steps · 60 min active · 660 min waiting
- 198 min
Day before: in a heavy pot, combine 500g pork shoulder or beef chuck (cut into chunks) + 200g pork liver (optional but traditional) + 1 large onion (chopped) + 1 carrot + 1 bay leaf + 1 tsp salt + 1 tsp black pepper + a few peppercorns + 1.5L water. Bring to a boil; reduce heat; simmer 90 min until meat is fork-tender.
- 28 min
Remove meat and liver; finely chop or grind. Strain the broth; reserve 800ml of the cooking liquid. Discard the bay and most of the vegetables.
- 328 min
Return the broth to the pot. Bring to a simmer. Slowly whisk in 200g raw buckwheat groats (Buchweizen) — stirring constantly to prevent lumps. Cook over low heat, stirring frequently, 25 min until the buckwheat is fully cooked and the mixture is very thick (like polenta).
- 48 min
Add the chopped meat and liver back into the buckwheat. Stir in 2 tsp ground caraway + 1/2 tsp ground allspice + 1/4 tsp ground cloves + 1 grated onion + 1 tsp salt + 1/2 tsp black pepper. Cook 5 min more to integrate, stirring constantly. The mixture should be very stiff — like thick mashed potatoes.
- 5485 min
Line a 1.5L loaf pan with parchment paper (overhanging the edges). Press the Pannas mixture into the pan, smoothing the top. Cover with another parchment sheet; refrigerate overnight (8+ hours) until completely firm.
- 65 min
Next day: turn the firm Pannas loaf out of the pan; remove parchment. Slice into 1-1.5cm thick rectangles or wedges.
- 712 min
Pan-fry: heat 2 tbsp neutral oil or lard in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the Pannas slices in a single layer; do not crowd. Fry 4 min per side until deep golden-brown and crispy on both sides. Work in batches.
- 85 min
Serve immediately, hot, on warm plates with apple sauce (Apfelmus, mandatory side), a slice of dark rye bread, and a small dish of medium-mild mustard. Pannas is breakfast food on Sundays or supper food during the week. Pair with strong black coffee for breakfast, or with Kölsch beer for supper.
What you'll need
A heavy, single-piece cast iron pan, 25-30 cm across, weighing 1.5-2.5 kg. Once preheated, the thick mass holds 230°C+ even when a cold steak hits the surface — that's the secret to a deep crust. A well-seasoned skillet (multiple thin layers of polymerized oil baked into the iron) is essentially nonstick, gets better with use, and lasts a century. Lodge skillets from Tennessee have been in continuous production since 1896.
Hand-held wire loop tool for beating eggs, whipping cream, emulsifying dressings, and incorporating air into batters. Balloon whisks (large round head) for whipping cream and meringues; French whisks (narrow tear-drop) for sauces in pots; flat whisks (gravy) for pan sauces. Stainless steel is universal; silicone-coated for non-stick pans.
