Salt cod (bacalhau) became Portugal's national fish in the 16th century, when fleets reached the cod banks off Newfoundland and salting allowed the long voyage home. Pastéis de bacalhau emerged from 19th-century home kitchens needing to use up the dry-and-soaked offcuts that wouldn't plate as fillets. The recipe was widely codified in the 1928 cookbook by Carlos Bento da Maia and is now sold in every Portuguese deli.
Salt cod fritters codified in Carlos Bento da Maia's 1928 cookbook, born from 19th-century kitchens using up bacalhau offcuts. The fish must be hand-flaked; a blender turns it to paste and the texture is gone.
Quenelle-shaped fritters of salt cod, mashed potato, onion, parsley, and egg, deep-fried until the outside is rough-textured and golden, the inside fluffy. Two spoons shape each one between scoops. Eaten warm with a squeeze of lemon and a glass of vinho verde, or cold from a deli case as a tram-stop snack in Lisbon.
The cod must be desalted by soaking 24–36 hours in the fridge with three or four water changes; under-soaked and the fritter is inedibly salty, over-soaked and it tastes of nothing. The fish is then poached, flaked by hand (never blended — pulse mashes it into paste), and folded into riced potato. Hand-flaking is the load-bearing step; you want the texture to read as fish, not purée.
Variations
Lisbon delis serve them at room temperature with mustard; Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau stuffs the centre with Serra da Estrela cheese; Brazilian bolinho de bacalhau is rounder, looser, often eaten with cachaça.
On the Palate
Where Pastéis de Bacalhau sits in the Portuguese flavor cloud
Two things carry this: desalt the cod properly (24–36 hours in the fridge, three or four water changes) or the fritter is inedibly salty, and flake it by hand rather than blending — pulsing mashes it to paste, and you want the texture to read as fish, not purée.
Ingredients
How it's made
5 steps · 55 min active + 1 day waiting
- 110 min
Soak the salted cod in cold water for 24 hours, changing the water 2-3 times to remove excess salt. Boil the cod in fresh water until flaky and tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and let cool slightly.
Watch outThe cod's soaked enough when a raw sliver tastes pleasantly seasoned, not salty — then poach only until it flakes apart, about ten minutes.
- 215 min
Boil the potatoes in a separate pot until fork-tender, about 15 minutes. Drain and mash them into a smooth consistency.
- 310 min
Flake the cooled cod into a large bowl, ensuring there are no bones. Add the mashed potatoes, finely chopped onion, parsley, and beaten egg. Mix until well combined.
Watch outFlake and fold gently — you want visible fish shreds through the mash, not a uniform smooth paste, so stop mixing while it still looks textured.
- 415 min
Using two spoons, shape the mixture into small oval patties. Heat olive oil in a deep pan until it reaches 350°F (175°C). Carefully lower the patties into the oil and fry until golden brown and crispy on the outside, about 4 minutes per side.
Watch outSlip a patty in as a tester: it should sizzle steadily and rise to the surface — sluggish bubbling means the oil's too cool and they'll soak it up.
- 55 min
Drain the pastéis de bacalhau on paper towels and serve hot, optionally garnished with additional parsley.
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