The Carnival sweet of the Macerata hills: firm dough balls scented with anise liqueur that are, unusually, boiled first, dropped into simmering water until they bob to the surface, then deep-fried until crackly-crisp. The name echoes the crunch they make when bitten. Soft within and shatteringly crisp without, they are soaked in crimson Alchermes and rolled in sugar, or drizzled with honey, and are a listed Marche PAT.
Scroccafusi belong to the Carnival tables of the Maceratese, where they also go by stummeri around Arquata and cecetti near Osimo. In older practice the dough was baked in a wood-fired oven; the boil-then-fry method now defines them. Around the sweet clings an old kitchen superstition: if someone else entered the room while they were being made and risked spoiling them, the cook would spit on the floor three times and grind the spot with a heel. They are recognised among Italy's traditional agri-food products.
You break through a hard, blistered crust that crackles audibly, into a soft, almost bready centre. The anise of the liqueur runs through it, the Alchermes brings a sweet, faintly spiced red gloss, and a final coat of sugar clings to the still-damp shell.
Boiling is the key. The chemical leavener releases carbon dioxide and the dough's starch gelatinises in the water; as the balls expand their density drops below the water's, so they rise, and floating signals the interior is set. Drained the moment they surface and dried well, they hit the hot oil with a firm, cooked shell that dehydrates and browns fast through the Maillard reaction, staying soft inside. Alchermes, coloured historically with cochineal, lends the crimson stain; sugar sticks to the wet coating.
Variations
Some cooks finish them with warm honey instead of Alchermes, keeping the fritters their natural gold. A baked, un-fried version survives and is held by some to be the older form. The dough may be scented with sambuca or plain anise liqueur where mistrà is not to hand, and quantities of egg and oil vary from house to house.
On the Palate
Where Scroccafusi sits in the Italian flavor cloud
Ingredients
Serves 6How it's made
8 steps · 20 min
- 110 min
Whisk the eggs with the sugar, olive oil and mistrà until pale and foamy.
- 220 min
Work in the flour and baking powder, then knead on a floured board for about 15 minutes into a firm, smooth dough.
- 320 min
Let the dough rest briefly, then shape it into small, walnut-sized balls.
Watch outThe dough must be firm and smooth after kneading — too soft and the balls slump and won't hold their shape in the boil.
- 415 min
Bring a wide pot of water to a gentle boil and lower in a few balls at a time; they will sink.
- 510 min
When the balls rise to the surface, let them boil 2 to 3 minutes more, then lift out and dry thoroughly on a cloth.
Watch outWait for the balls to float, then give them two to three minutes more — floating means the inside is cooked and set.
- 610 min
Snip a small cross in the top of each ball with scissors.
- 715 min
Deep-fry a few at a time in hot oil for about 8 minutes, until deep golden and crackly.
Watch outDry them thoroughly before frying — any surface water spatters violently and stops the shell from crisping golden.
- 810 min
Drain, then dip in Alchermes and roll in sugar, or drizzle with warm honey.
