Plaa Goong
“Shrimp tossed in nam prik phao (chile jam) and roasted-rice-powder dressing with lemongrass, mint, kaffir lime leaf, and shallot — the central Thai answer to Isaan larb.”
Where it comes from
Plaa goong (literally 「shrimp larb」, though plaa is a central-Thai cognate of Isaan laap/larb) is the central-Thai answer to the northeastern roasted-rice-powder salad. The defining shift is the dressing base: where Isaan larb leans on lime-fish-sauce-rice-powder alone, plaa goong adds nam prik phao — the Bangkok-pantry chile jam of fried shallot, garlic, dried shrimp, palm sugar, and roasted dried chiles. This makes plaa goong sweeter, smokier, and more 「restaurant」 than its Isaan cousin.
On the plate
Shrimp curled tight, with a slight crunch from the residual-poach (not over-cooked); the dressing is darker and rounder than a plain yum because nam prik phao brings smoky-sweet roasted-shrimp depth. Khao khua dusts the shrimp like fine sand and clings to the dressing — it's the textural signature, audible between the teeth. Lemongrass slices are fierce raw; chew them with the shrimp to release the citral. If there's no rice-powder rasp on the tongue, the cook ground the rice too coarse or skipped it entirely.
How it works
Two load-bearing techniques. First, residual-poach the shrimp — drop them into off-heat salted water, never a rolling boil. Hot-boiled shrimp shrink and turn rubbery; residual-poaching gives a snap-and-tender bite. Second, roast the rice yourself, same day if possible — pre-ground khao khua loses the toasted-popcorn aroma within hours of grinding because it's just lightly broken starch with surface volatiles.
The central-Thai answer to Isaan larb, with nam prik phao (chile jam) added to the dressing — sweeter, smokier, more 「restaurant」 than the northeastern version. Khao khua must be roasted same-day or it loses the toasted-popcorn aroma fast.
Variations
Plaa goong is the central Thai shrimp version; Isaan koi goong leans on raw river prawn with rice powder and dill; Lao soup pa is the white-fish equivalent; Cambodian plea trey at the Battambang market crosses the border.
On the Palate
Ingredients
Serves 3
How it's made
5 steps · Show ↓22 min active · 3 min waiting
How it's made
5 steps · Show ↓- 18 min
Toast 2 tbsp uncooked Thai sticky rice in a dry pan over medium heat 6-8 minutes, stirring, until deep golden and fragrant. Cool, then grind to coarse powder in a mortar — this is khao khua.
Watch outEnsure the rice does not burn; watch for a deep golden color and a nutty aroma.
- 26 min
Peel and devein 16 medium shrimp; butterfly along the back. Bring 500ml salted water to a bare simmer (not boil). Slip shrimp in, off heat, and let them poach in residual heat 60-90 seconds until just curled. Lift out and drain.
Watch outDo not let the water boil, as it can overcook the shrimp.
- 33 min
Build dressing: 1.5 tbsp nam prik phao (chile jam), 3 tbsp lime juice, 2 tbsp nam pla, half a teaspoon palm sugar, 4 prik kee noo bruised. Whisk smooth.
Watch outAdjust the lime juice to taste; too much can overpower the dressing.
- 43 min
Slice 1 lemongrass stalk (tender lower 6cm only) into paper-thin rings. Sliver 2 kaffir lime leaves. Slice 2 shallots thinly.
Watch outEnsure slices are thin for better integration into the dish.
- 52 min
Toss shrimp with shallot, lemongrass, kaffir lime leaf, dressing, and 1.5 tbsp khao khua. Add 20 mint leaves last; fold once. Plate; sprinkle remaining khao khua over. Serve immediately.
Watch outFold gently to avoid breaking the shrimp.
