Documented in Reggio Emilia since at least the 12th century as 'scarpazzone' — peasant cooking that used wild greens (originally including chard stems, the 'scarpe' or 'shoe' parts, hence the name). It was field food: portable, robust, eats cold. The lardo crust is older than butter dough in this region; pigs were the household pantry, and rendered fat outlasted cream.
Documented in Reggio Emilia since the 12th century as 'scarpazzone' — peasant pie that used chard stems (the 'scarpe' or shoes). Dough is laminated with strutto (rendered lard), not butter, so the crust stays savory cold. Greens must be squeezed bone-dry by hand in a towel or the bottom weeps.
A flat, dark-green savory pie about a finger thick, cut into squares. Filling is finely chopped Swiss chard and spinach, sweated with onion and rendered lardo, bound with Parmigiano — no eggs, no ricotta. The crust is paper-thin lardo-flecked dough rolled and pricked all over so it doesn't puff. Eaten room-temperature as breakfast, snack, or roadside lunch in Reggio Emilia. Greens should taste of greens, not cheese.
The greens must be squeezed bone-dry after blanching — squeeze in a clean kitchen towel by hand, not a strainer, or the filling weeps and the crust goes soggy from below. The traditional fat for the dough is strutto (rendered lard); butter versions taste richer but lack the savory note that makes the pie work cold. Pricking the crust before baking is essential; ungassed steam tears the top.
Variations
Reggio Emilia's montano version (mountain) adds rice; Bologna's torta erbazzone-style runs a flakier puff dough; .
On the Palate
Where Erbazzone sits in the Italian flavor cloud
Ingredients
How it's made
4 steps · 1 hour 30 min
- 118 min
Sauté chopped pancetta, onion, and garlic until fragrant.
- 211 min
Add spinach and chard to the pan, cooking until wilted.
Watch outWilt the greens, then wring them bone-dry in a towel by hand — a strainer won't do it, and any water left makes the crust soggy from below.
- 37 min
Mix the greens with Parmigiano and fill into a pastry shell.
- 455 min
Bake until the crust is golden and flaky.
Watch outPrick the crust before it bakes and pull it at deep golden and flaky — unpricked, trapped steam tears the top open.
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