Jujeh Kebab

A relatively recent classic of the Persian repertoire — codified in early 20th century Tehran restaurant culture, when poultry became affordable enough for everyday grilling. The flavoring (saffron, lemon, onion, yogurt) is older, drawn from the regional marination tradition for game birds going back centuries. Today it's the standard introductory kebab on Iranian restaurant menus worldwide because it's the most forgiving of dry-out.

Saffron-lemon-yogurt marinated chicken, traditionally a young spring bird (jujeh = chick), grilled bone-in over mangal charcoal. Saffron-butter brushed on at the table while still on the skewer. The marinade goes 6+ hours; less than that and the saffron doesn't cure deep enough.

Boneless chicken (traditionally a young bird, hence "jujeh" — chick) cubed, marinated yellow-orange with saffron and lemon, threaded on a thin skewer with no fat between pieces. Grilled fast over charcoal so the surface chars but the inside stays just-set juicy. Served over saffron rice with a charred tomato and a pat of butter on the rice. Dry chicken means the marinade was too short or the heat too low.

The marinade has two jobs the cook can't see. Onion juice (grated and squeezed in) carries enzymes that break down chicken muscle, similar to papaya in seekh kebab. Saffron must be bloomed first in a tablespoon of hot water — dry threads thrown into yogurt yield mostly color, no flavor. Marinate at least four hours; eight is better. Lemon goes in only in the final hour or the acid turns the surface mealy.