Basra

Iraqi South means Basra and the lower marshes where the two rivers meet, a kitchen built on two things: the catch of the Gulf and the largest date-palm groves on earth. Basra was once the center of the world date trade; date molasses (dibs) is the oldest sweetener here, older than refined sugar. Masgouf is Iraq's national dish — a whole carp from the Tigris, split open, stood upright beside an open fire and grilled slowly, skin charred and flesh tender, the way the marsh and river people have cooked for centuries. The Marsh Arabs live on fish, rice and waterfowl; their fish and bird stews are unlike anything in the center. Basra also yields shrimp and silver pomfret; its seafood is unique in Iraq. The flavors here are river, sea and date — hotter, fishier, more Gulf than the center.