Negiyaki
Japanese

Negiyaki

Osaka·Easy·25 min

A savory pancake brimming with green onions and pork belly, glazed with soy sauce.

Osaka invention credited to a shop called Yamamoto in the Juso district, opened as an okonomiyaki shop in June 1965 by Yamamoto Takae; she put negiyaki on the menu as its own dish in 1968 — a lighter sister to okonomiyaki built around Kansai's prized scallions rather than cabbage. The dish stayed regional; outside Osaka most okonomiyaki places either don't serve it or do a bad version with too much batter.

Yamamoto in Juso, Osaka opened in 1965 with this scallion-heavy lighter sister to okonomiyaki — 70% scallion to 30% batter is the ratio; reverse it and you've made bad okonomiyaki. Naga-negi is essential because thin scallion goes limp on the iron.

A flat savory pancake, thinner than okonomiyaki, the batter mostly a vehicle for a pile of green onions — both shredded scallion and chopped naga-negi — bound with egg and dashi, with strips of pork belly and sometimes beef tendon laid through. Brushed with thin soy sauce, not the thick okonomi sauce. Eaten straight off the iron griddle, cut with a metal spatula.

The ratio is the trick — negiyaki should be roughly 70% scallion to 30% batter by volume; reverse it and you've made bad okonomiyaki. The naga-negi (Japanese leek) is essential because regular scallion alone goes limp on the griddle; the thicker leek holds shape and gives a sweet bite when seared. Soy sauce, not okonomi sauce — the thick fruit sauce would smother the green onion's whole point.

Variations

Yamamoto's original is the canonical Juso version with thin soy brushing; Negi-yaki Yamamoto in Tokyo's Roppongi runs a posher version with wagyu sujiniku; modern Osaka shops add cheese or tomato; Hiroshima cooks rarely make it (rivalry).

On the Palate

Where Negiyaki sits in the Japanese flavor cloud

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Ingredients

How it's made

6 steps · 25 min

  1. 1
    3 min

    Mix wheat flour, dashi, and egg into a smooth batter.

  2. 2
    5 min

    Fold in finely chopped green onions.

    Watch out

    Load it heavy with leek — roughly two parts scallion to one of batter; too much batter and you've just made bad okonomiyaki.

  3. 3
    5 min

    Pour batter onto a hot greased griddle, spreading it thin.

  4. 4
    5 min

    Layer thin slices of pork belly on top.

  5. 5
    5 min

    Cook until crispy and golden on both sides.

    Watch out

    Press it thin and leave it undisturbed till the underside is crisp golden — flip too early and the loose scallion cake falls apart.

  6. 6
    2 min

    Brush with soy sauce before serving.

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