Born in the 1960s–70s in the Mahane Yehuda market in west Jerusalem when butcher stalls had unsold offal at the end of the day; Iraqi-Israeli grill cook Reuven Cohen at Sima restaurant is most often credited with codifying the dish around 1970. The flat-top technique is shawarma-adjacent — same spices, same hot metal, but mixed cuts including heart, liver, spleen.
Born in 1960s–70s Mahane Yehuda when butcher stalls had unsold offal at day's end; Iraqi-Israeli grill cook Reuven Cohen at Sima codified it around 1970. The mix is the technique — hearts cook in 4 minutes, livers in 90 seconds, spleen in 6, so cooks stage them in reverse order to finish together.
Chicken hearts, livers, spleens and shawarma scraps griddled hard on a flat-top with sliced onion, cumin, turmeric, black pepper and a cracking finish of hyssop or za'atar. Stuffed into a half-pita with tahina, pickle and amba. Served fast, eaten standing on King George Street. The offal must be cooked through but not greyed — pink-centered liver is the line.
The mix is the whole technique — hearts cook in 4 minutes, livers in 90 seconds, spleen needs 6. Cooks stage them onto the griddle in reverse order so everything finishes together. Hyssop (Jordanian za'atar herb, not the dried mix) goes on at the very end because its thymol oxidizes fast on heat — long contact turns the perfume metallic. The pita is warmed on the same flat-top and absorbs the rendered fat.
Variations
Sima (the codifier, on Agripas Street); Steakiyat HaTzanchanim (army-veteran style, heavier paprika); Steakiyat Hatzot (the sit-down version with sides); Tel Aviv adaptations swap chicken for lamb offal; modern Eyal Shani-era plating drops the pita and serves the offal on its own.
On the Palate
Where Jerusalem Mixed Grill sits in the Israeli flavor cloud
Stage the cuts by cook time and finish everything at once — and add the za'atar herb only at the very end, because its thymol turns metallic on prolonged heat.
Ingredients
How it's made
4 steps · 22 min active + 45 min waiting
- 17 min
Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add sliced onions and a pinch of salt, stirring until they soften and become translucent, about 7 minutes. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until deeply caramelized, about 45 minutes.
Watch outReal caramelization takes the full 45 min — the onions should go deep amber and jammy, not just soft and pale.
- 25 min
In a large bowl, mix turmeric, cumin, fenugreek, baharat, cinnamon, and salt. Add the chicken pieces and toss to coat them evenly with the spices.
- 37 min
Heat a large skillet over high heat and add 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Once shimmering, add the spiced chicken mixture in an even layer. Let it sear undisturbed for about 2 minutes, then lower the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until cooked through, about 5 minutes. Squeeze lemon juice over the chicken.
Watch outTwo minutes undisturbed first — you want a brown seared crust before you start stirring.
- 43 min
Remove the skillet from heat and stir in the caramelized onions. Mix until well combined, and serve hot with rice, Israeli salad, or pita bread.
Watch outFold the caramelized onions in off the heat at the end so their sweetness stays soft against the spiced meat.
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