Indonesia / South Sumatra (Palembang)

Palembang

South Sumatra's fish-paste kitchen — springy pempek in a dark sour-sweet cuko, tamarind-bright pindang fish soups, and the coconut-rich noodles of mie celor.

10 dishes · 37 ingredients · 9 techniquesReference
Signature·Dish

Pempek

Chewy fried fish-and-sago cakes served with a dark, fiery sweet-sour cuko — Palembang's defining dish.

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Palembang cooks along the Musi River, and its kitchen turns freshwater fish into a whole family of springy cakes. Pempek is the emblem — fish and sago pounded smooth, then boiled or fried and dipped in cuko, a dark, palate-stripping sauce of palm sugar, tamarind, garlic and chili. Its cousins ring the same idea: tekwan in a clear shrimp broth, model stuffed with tofu, laksan and celimpungan in coconut gravy. Away from the fishcakes the city sours its soups — pindang patin and pindang tulang, tart with tamarind and chili — and slicks thick egg noodles with a coconut-shrimp gravy in mie celor.

Start Here

Pempek

Chewy fried fish-and-sago cakes with a dark sour-sweet cuko.

Why start here · The defining Palembang cake.

Tekwan

Fish balls in a clear shrimp broth with jicama and glass noodles.

Why start here · The pempek family in soup form.

Mie Celor

Thick egg noodles in a rich coconut-and-shrimp broth.

Why start here · Palembang's coconut breakfast bowl.

The Pantry

See all 37 ingredients

How They Cook

Techniques that define this cuisine

See 5 more techniques

Kindred Kitchens

Cuisines built on the same signature ingredients

Other regions

Siblings within Indonesian — each its own tradition.

Javanese
28

The dominant plate — gudeg, soto, bakso, nasi goreng. Sweet-leaning palace tradition (kraton Yogyakarta), pan-Indonesian street staples.

Sundanese
18

Fresh raw vegetables (lalapan), karedok, sambal-heavy — the Bandung kitchen. Less sweet than Javanese, more herbaceous and bright.

Padang
17

Minangkabau coconut-and-chili tradition — rendang, nasi padang's parade of small dishes, gulai. Among the world's spiciest cuisines.

Balinese
16

Distinct Hindu island — babi guling (suckling pig), bebek betutu, lawar, sate lilit. Built on base genep spice paste; ceremonial cooking is daily life here.

Betawi
13

Jakarta-Betawi cuisine reflects the cosmopolitan capital region: Soto Betawi (creamy beef soup), Kerak Telor (Jakarta omelet), Asinan Betawi (pickled-vegetable salad), Gado-Gado (mixed salad with peanut sauce). The cuisine has Malay-Chinese-Arab-European fusion from Jakarta's 400-year port history.

Manado
11

Manado / Minahasan cuisine of North Sulawesi is Indonesia's spiciest regional cuisine — Ayam Rica-Rica (spicy chicken), Tinutuan/Bubur Manado (vegetable porridge), Cakalang Fufu (smoked tuna), Dabu-Dabu (raw chili sambal). Heavy use of bird's eye chilies, kemangi (lemon basil), and Pacific seafood.

Acehnese
9

The curry-forward, Indian- and Arab-inflected cooking of Sumatra's northern tip — fragrant mie aceh, fried-curry-leaf ayam tangkap, vinegar-stewed sie reuboh, and vegetable curries built on fermented pliek u. Spice-trade history in every pot.

Makassar
9

The beef-and-broth cooking of the Bugis-Makassar coast — coto, konro and pallubasa, dark with keluak or rich with toasted coconut, ladled over ketupat. Sour pallumara fish soups, charred konro ribs, and the green-banana sweet es pisang ijo off Losari beach.

Banjar
7

The Banjarese kitchen of South Kalimantan, river-fed and spice-trade-scented — clove-and-cinnamon soto banjar, smoked-snakehead ketupat kandangan, and the sweet dried-chili masak habang that glazes its fish and fowl.

Madurese
6

The island that gave Indonesia its satay — Madurese cooking runs on sweet-soy sate madura, clear beefy soto madura, and frugal, intense uses of every part of the animal, from trotter broth to banana-leaf-steamed duck.

Signature Dishes (10)

Browse all 10 dishes