Umbrian

Pizza margherita, ragù napoletano, Vesuvian tomatoes, mozzarella di bufala — the south's loud and tomato-forward face.

Arab-Norman-Greek inheritance — pistachio, citrus, sweet-and-sour, sword fish, arancini, cannoli.

Bread, beans, bistecca alla fiorentina. Rustic, salt-light by tradition, olive oil pour-over.

The wealthy, butter-and-rice north anchored on Milan — saffron risotto, breaded veal cutlets, slow-braised osso buco, polenta, and a stable of cheeses from Gorgonzola to Grana Padano. Refined city cooking sits beside hearty Alpine and lake-country fare.

Cacio e pepe, carbonara, amatriciana, gricia — pasta with four ingredients executed to the gram.

Heel-of-Italy olive oil — orecchiette con cime di rapa, focaccia barese, burrata.

Egg pasta, prosciutto, parmigiano, balsamic — the deepest pantry in Italy.

The sub-alpine northwest where French refinement meets peasant roots — white truffles from Alba, hazelnuts, slow-braised Barolo beef, hand-pinched agnolotti, raw veal, and a deep bench of cheeses. Butter and rice rule over olive oil, and the wine (Nebbiolo, Barbera) is never far from the pot.

Lagoon cicchetti and trade-winds sweetness — sarde in saor, baccalà mantecato, tiramisu.

Toe-of-Italy fire — 'nduja, peperoncino, pesce spada, pork-and-chili intensity.

Coastal-Riviera basil-and-oil — pesto Genovese, focaccia di Recco, farinata.

Sheep-island archaic — pane carasau, malloreddus, porceddu, the most-ancient Italian.

Mountain-pastoralist cooking from the Gran Sasso and Maiella massifs, distinguished by castrato (mutton) skewers, square-cut chitarra pasta, fennel-pollen porchetta, L'Aquila saffron, and the calendar-bound May Day soup Le Virtù. The short Adriatic coast contributes the no-stir Vasto brodetto.

Cuisine of the Marche region — coastal Ancona-Pesaro brings 13-species Adriatic brodetto and Norwegian stockfish; inland Macerata-Ascoli brings vincisgrassi (the baroque offal-and-truffle lasagna), olive all'ascolana (three-meat-stuffed fried olives), the spreadable salami ciauscolo, and the yeasted-flatbread crescia. Two halves connected by Acqualagna's prized white truffles.

Italy's far northeast against Austria and Slovenia — a borderland of Montasio cheese, smoked and cured pork, polenta, and sweet-savory frico and cjarsons that carry an Austro-Hungarian accent. Frank, mountain cooking more Central-European than Mediterranean.

The German-speaking Dolomite north where Italy turns Tyrolean — bread dumplings, speck, rye, apples, and butter-and-rye dishes that read as much Austrian as Italian. Mountain, forest and orchard cooking built for cold altitude.

Italy's smallest, highest, French-speaking Alpine region — Fontina cheese above all, melted into fonduta and polenta concia, alongside beef braised in red wine, rye bread, cured meats and chestnuts. Hearty fuel for the high mountains.

Italy's smallest, least-known mainland region — split from Abruzzo only in 1963. A cuisine of sheep transhumance and pork, chili, hand-made cavatelli, and signature dishes like the paprika-roasted pork pampanella; close kin to Abruzzese cooking.

The mountainous, sparsely populated south-central region of Basilicata (ancient Lucania) — a frugal cucina povera of pork and lamb, durum wheat, chili, pecorino, legumes, and above all the prized sun-dried Senise peppers fried crisp as peperoni cruschi.